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Thursday, May 27, 2021

四大要素加速推进可持续时尚创新

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在全球时尚产业迈进可持续循环发展的时代中,随着国家到民众对可持续发展问题的意识逐渐加强,时尚业可持续转型升级不得不加速推进。

时尚行业的碳排放约占所有行业碳排放的10%,远远超过航空航天业。时装业严重依赖化石燃料,近70%的服装是由不可再生能源生产制取的合成纤维制成的。仅2015年,纺织品生产行业就产生了12亿吨二氧化碳。按照目前的增长率来看,到2050年,时尚行业将贡献25%-30%的碳排放量。

印染工艺带来的水污染也相当惊人。纺织工业依赖于大量化学药品的使用:目前已知约有3500种化学药品用于纺织品制造,根据欧盟的分类,其中750种对人类健康有危害,440种对环境有危害。而大约20%的水污染是由染色和后整理等湿法工艺中使用的有害化学物质造成的。

全球纺织和服装行业每年产生的废弃物多达9200万吨,按照目前的技术,对产生的废弃物只有20%-25%的回收能力。

一个个触目惊心的数字都在提醒时尚行业的从业者,转型升级亟需提速。中欧国际工商学院市场营销学教授王琪与我们分享了可持续时尚创新的四大要素。

首先在商业模式和观念上进行创新。已经涌现了一些非常创新的再造品牌践行循环时尚模式,但数量还是微乎其微。只有分拣、分类、清洁、再造的链条中有更多的行业参与进来,有更多的投资进来,才会形成一个可持续的再循环的链条。

租赁模式也是值得肯定的一种商业模式。提供一个平台,鼓励消费者尝试租赁或预定,消费者按月支付费用,在当月可以拿到当年最新的款式,穿过后再返还给平台。估值超过20亿美元的RealReal和Farfetch都活跃在这个领域。还有Mudseller也向消费者提供牛仔裤租赁的选择。

借鉴盲盒模式,时尚产业也可以做自己产品的盲盒。消费者不仅能享受到时尚的艺术和设计,还能感受到商家带来的惊喜。就在去年夏天,URBN(拥有Anthropologie、Urban Outfitters和Free People的集团)推出了自己的服务,名为Nuuly,顾客每月支付88美元,就可以从Ralph Lauren、Cynthia Rowley和Reebok等上百个热门品牌中选择6件衣服。

以上几种模式的成功都需要消费者的观念革新,这是可持续时尚创新的第二个要素。品牌通过衣服传达自己的设计理念、艺术想象和思想,消费者购买之后不仅是满足穿着的需要,还是一种对艺术品的拥有。消费者是否可以改变这个观念?从过去的拥有一件衣服,变为只是使用它,使用完再和别人分享。

第三个要素是技术创新,也是可以达到颠覆性的创新和改革。比如说材料、技术和生产工艺的创新,帮助时尚行业更好地回收,从而提炼出再生材料,或是生产出可降解、可回收的材料;在印染过程中帮助品牌设计方提供减少污染、甚至零污染的印染技术;在生产和零售过程中设立一定的分类标准,让大家知道用什么原料生产能实现再回收或可降解;在销售过程中,以一种什么样的方式来销售,才能更好地向消费者传达可持续时尚的理念。

政策创新是为可持续时尚创新提供保障的第四个要素。金融资本可以创立创新基金,来支持企业的转型或生产工艺的研发。税收政策可以向从事回收、清洗、维修、旧衣再造方面的企业倾斜,提供减免税收等优惠政策。绿色标准及认证方面亟需制定国家层面的标准和标识。从消费者的角度来说,可以通过标识识别购买的服装是否可循环,可循环的成分是怎样的。

来源 | 彭博《商业周刊》

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